WHEN IT WAS COLD OUTSIDE, MY GRANNY MADE VEGETABLE SOUP FROM WHATEVER ROOT VEGETABLES WERE AVAILABLE. SHE USUALLY SAUTÉED THE VEGETABLES AND THEN SIMMERED THEM FOR A FEW MINUTES IN CHICKEN BROTH WITH A PIECE OF HAM OR OTHER CURED PORK. IT WAS LIKE A LIGHT, BROTHY CHICKEN SOUP BUT WITH ROOT VEGETABLES IN PLACE OF CHICKEN. THIS SOUP RE-CREATES THAT DISH FROM MEMORY. INSTEAD OF HAM, I TOSS IN A FEW CHUNKS OF PANCETTA (UNSMOKED BACON) FOR A SAVORY CONTRAST TO THE SWEETNESS OF THE ROOTS. I USE RUTABAGAS, CARROTS, SUNCHOKES, TURNIPS, AND PARSNIPS HERE. IF YOU DON’T HAVE ONE OF THOSE, LEAVE IT OUT AND REPLACE IT WITH MORE OF A ROOT VEGETABLE YOU DO HAVE. THE IMPORTANT THING IS TO DICE ALL THE VEGETABLES THE SAME SIZE SO THEY COOK QUICKLY AND EVENLY BEFORE THE LIQUID IS ADDED. THE VEGETABLES RETAIN BETTER SHAPE AND FLAVOR THIS WAY.
SHOULD BE ENOUGH FOR 8 PEOPLE
PANCETTA OR UNSMOKED BACON 8 OUNCES, CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
ONIONS 2 ½ CUPS CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
CELERIAC 1 ¼ CUPS PEELED AND CUT INTO ¼ INCH DICE
CELERY 1 CUP CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
CARROTS 2/3 CUP PEELED AND CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
SUNCHOKES (JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES) 1 ¼ CUPS CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
TURNIPS 1 ¼ CUPS PEELED AND CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
RUTABEGAS 1 CUP PEELED AND CUT INTO ¼-INCH DICE
GARLIC 4 LARGE CLOVES, THINLY SLICED ON A MANDOLINE
CHICKEN STOCK 6 CUPS
ESPELETTE PEPPER 1 TEASPOON
SALT 2 TEASPOONS
BABY TURNIP GREENS 1 BUNCH SLICED INTO CHIFFONADE (THIN STRIPS), ABOUT 4 CUPS
LEMON 1
FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY ABOUT ¼ CUP MINCED
FRESH CHIVES ABOUT 1/4 CUP VERY THINLY SLICED
CELERY LEAVES ABOUT 1/4 CUP MINCED
- HEAT A LARGE ENAMELED CAST-IRON POT OR OTHER SOUP POT OVER MEDIUM HEAT. ADD THE PANCETTA, STIR, AND COOK UNTIL THE PANCETTA IS GOLDEN BROWN, 8 TO 10 MINUTES. ADD THE ONIONS, RUTABAGA, CELERY, AND CARROTS AND COOK UNTIL THE VEGETABLES START TO SOFTEN AND THE ONIONS BECOME TRANSLUCENT, ABOUT 6 MINUTES, STIRRING NOW AND THEN. ADD THE SUNCHOKES, TURNIPS, AND PARSNIPS AND COOK FOR AN ADDITIONAL 8 MINUTES, STIRRING A FEW TIMES. STIR IN THE GARLIC AND COOK JUST UNTIL FRAGRANT, ABOUT 1 MINUTE. STIR IN THE CHICKEN STOCK, ESPELETTE PEPPER, AND SALT. BRING THE MIXTURE TO A BOIL, THEN CUT THE HEAT DOWN TO LOW, COVER, AND SIMMER FOR 5 MINUTES. THE VEGETABLES SHOULD BE JUST TENDER.
- REMOVE THE POT FROM THE HEAT, AND STIR IN THE TURNIP GREENS AND ABOUT 1 TABLESPOON LEMON JUICE. TASTE AND SEASON AS NEEDED WITH ADDITIONAL SALT AND LEMON JUICE. LADLE INTO BOWLS AND GARNISH WITH THE PARSLEY, CHIVES, AND CELERY LEAVES.
PREP TIP / DON’T BE TEMPTED TO MINCE THE GARLIC HERE. IT SHOULD BE SLICED. IF YOU MINCE IT, THE SMALL PIECES WILL COOK FASTER AND DEVELOP A BITTER TASTE. THE SLICES ALSO CONTRIBUTE TO THE TEXTURE OF THE SOUP. IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE SOUP AHEAD, PREPARE IT UP TO THE POINT OF SIMMERING THE VEGETABLES IN THE SEASONED STOCK. COOL IT DOWN, AND REFRIGERATE IT FOR UP TO 2 DAYS. THEN REHEAT THE SOUP AND ADD THE GREENS AND LEMON JUICE JUST BEFORE SERVING AND GARNISHING.
